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Do you mind getting your finger off of my throat?

Although it is not necessary to take your kitten to the veterinarian more that once every 12 months or so – unless your kitten is sick or injured, of course – there are some actions you can follow which will help to ensure your kitten’s health.

Once per week, take 5 to 10 minutes to visually examine your kitten – looking for anything that looks out-of-the-ordinary. 

Kitten Movement
Call your kitten to you – how is he moving?  How is his walk – is he favoring one leg over the other?

Kitten Eyes
Now look closely at your kitten’s eyes – are they healthy looking and clear?  They should not be cloudy.  Also, watch for any discharge from or around your kittens eyes – there should be none.  On the off chance that there is a discharge, clean the area and then check again in 24 hours.  If the discharge returns, then make an appointment with the vet.

Kitten Nose
Similar to the kitten’s eyes, the nose should be moist with no discharge.  If there is a discharge, clean the area and check it again in 24 hours. If the discharge returns, then make an appointment with the vet.

Kitten Ears
And similar to the kitten’s eys and nose, a healthy kitten’s ears should be relatively clean with no discharge.  If a dicharge is found, the clean the area and check again in 24 hours. If the discharge returns, then make an appointment with the vet.

Kitten Mouth
Normally a kitten’s teeth should be white.  Open your kitten’s mouth carefully to inspect this.  Also, look for missing teeth.

Kitten Body
Check for lumps and bumps on your kitten’s tummy and back.  If anything seems out of the ordinary, put a call into your vet.

Kitten Fur
Inspect the state of your kitten’s fur.  Is the fur healthly looking? Is some of the fur falling out?  Does the fur look dull or even greasy?  These symptoms can be caused from a nutritional deficiency.  Also, a problem with fleas can problems with fur falling out.  You can try bathing and regular brushing if you suspect it might help, other wise check with your vet.

Awww, Man, Doggie Slobber

From: d21c.com

Cats sleep a lot, have you noticed it?  It’s a natural part of being a cat, I’m convinced, because it’s a seemingly universal trait.  And really, cats kind of move at their own pace, don’t they?  However, should you give your sedate kitty a deep whiff of catnip, the party will come alive.  Suddenly this sedate, dormant feline will ‘wake up’ and frolic and be as frisky as a kitten again.

Then…

Two to fifteen minutes pass by and your cat comes back down from the moon and returns to the same sedate cat you’ve come to love – the effects of the catnip totally gone.

So yes, the catnip can have an effect, but why do cats react to it that way?

Did you know that not all cats react to catnip?  It’s true.  About one third to half of all domestic cats are totally unaffected.  In fact, the classic catnip ‘fever’ is inherited – a kitten with one parent who reacts and one that doesn’t has a 50 percent chance (one out of two) of reacting themselves.  Cats that have both parents that react have a 75 percent chance (three out of four) to react to it themselves.  Also, kittens younger than four months usually do not react to catnip – but do that really need it anyway   And catnip has a lessened effect on older cats.

So what is the magic ingredient of catnip that drives the kitties wild?  It’s a oil called napetalactone.  However, researchers still don’t know why it causes cats to go nuts.

Did you know that even big cats – lions, leopards, cheetahs, pumas can also catch the catnip buzz.  Interestingly enough, tigers seem to be immuned.

The catnip buzz seems to come more from topical exposure rather than from ingesting it.  If you watch, most cats with catnip will sniff at it, rub up against it.  Those that eat it can experience the opposite effect, which is act as a sedative instead as a stimulant.

So can this catnip high be dangerous for you feline friend?  Catnip is chemically related to cannibis and effects typically last no more than 15 minutes.  In fact, after about 15 minutes, most cats loose interest altogether.  Interestingly, most cats will not react again for a minimum of an hour.  Also, studies have shown that cats do no become dependant on the substance.

Not all cats react the same way to catnip.  Typically, the response is increase friskiness and playfulness, but there are some cats that actually become more aggressive with its use.

So, in summary, catnip seems to be a safe, recreational drug for your kitty-cat.

Cat Health
Cat Health

A Hard Day’s Night

From: bengalkitties.com

In last post, we talked about the advantages and disadvantages of toilet training your cat.  Today, we are going to get a little more concrete and detail the logical progression of steps.

You will notice that there is a logical progression from one step to the next.  The key to this whole process is patience, patience, patience.  You need to watch your cat and observe any ‘discomfort’ from moving too quickly. 

Step 1
So that your Cat will start to associate his/her litter box with the toilet, you want to gradually inch the litter box toward the toilet until is right next to it.  Remember to do this slowly or it could disorient your cat, having its litter box moved too often and to quickly. 

Step 2
Now it’s time to raise the litter box up to the toilet seat’s level.  The key here is to do this gradually, about a 1/2 to 1 inch per day or so.  Really the amount is up to your cat’s tolerance for change.  Also, make sure that you keep the toilet bowl lid up and the seat down during this phase.

Step 3
Next, you want to move the litter box on top of and resting on the toilet seat.  Again, do this gradually.

Step 4
Next, fit a metal bowl on the inside of the toilet bowl – make sure it’s a snug fit.  Many pet stores carry these.  Otherwise, you can use a larger mixing bowl.  Make sure that the bowl has about 5 small holes on the bottom for draining – a regular drill can be used to make these.  You are going to fill the bowl with flushable cat litter.  Remove the litter box. Make sure to put down the toilet seat.Next, fit a metal bowl on the inside of the toilet bowl – make sure it’s a snug fit.  Many pet stores carry these.  Otherwise, you can use a larger mixing bowl.  Make sure that the bowl has about 5 small holes on the bottom for draining – a regular drill can be used to make these.  You are going to fill the bowl with flushable cat litter.  Remove the litter box. Make sure to put down the toilet seat.

Step 5
The goal is to have your cat plant all four paws on the toilet seat and squat over the toilet.  However, at first, he/she will plant down inside the bowl full of litter.  So now, this is where your work and patience comes in.  You need to watch for when you kitty goes to the ‘litter box’.  You’ll want to gently move the cat while it is excreting from the inside of the metal bowl to the seat, using lot’s positive praise.

Step 6
The next step is to start decreasing the amount of litter in the bowl – again, this is a gradual process.  Cat’s instinctively scratch in the litter to cover their waste, so be prepared for some litter on the floor.

Step 7
Get a new metal bowl, one without any holes in the bottom and replace the one you had been using.  Next, gradually fill the bowl with water – a little at a time.

Step 8
When you have filled the bowl to about 1 inch from its top, it’s time to remove it altogether.  You are basically done and you cat should be toilet trained.

Remember to remember to leave the toilet seat up and flush often.

Cat Litter Box
Cat Litter Box

“Easy with the tongue, Shep”

From: freewebs.com

Hopefully you won’t have to give your cat or kitten an injection, but, just in case…

Setting the Mood

It is important for your cat to be relaxed up until the time of the injection.  My cats respond well to having a favorite treat.  Make sure you pet and cuddle with your feline also.  Some also recommend that an injection be giving about the same time everyday.  Also, make sure you get down on Fluffy’s level – you don’t want to come across as threatening or domineering.  Try to make yourself as comfortable as possible.  For those of you who are not comfortable on the floor, you can bring your cat up with you a couch in your lap.

Disguise the Needle

You don’t want your cat to make the connection between a syringe in your hand the slight and momentary pain he or she will feel.  And really, this is important, usually in the very beginning of a injection routine.  You can try to hide the syringe altogether.  I like to use the capped syringe as a play-thing – pet your kitty with it, stroke him.

Confidence

If this is your first time doing this, you are apt to be a little nervous.  Try to relax.  Cats can read your mood and feelings.  The more relaxed you are, the more relaxed he or she will be.  Also, keep your movements fluid and smooth – try to avoid sudden, jerky motions as this signals stress or can over-stimulate your cat.

The Place

The scruff of the neck has long been used as an optimal place for the injection, however, there is research to show that blood supply is lower there than what is optimal to deliver the drug to your cats body.  It is much better to use an area on the stomach (avoid the nipples and navel) or an area near his or her hips.  Also, it is important to not use the same spot over and over again because this may cause a nodule of tissue to form, called a ‘granuloma’, which has poor blood supply.

The Technique

You want to pinch the skin up, pulling it slightly from the cat’s body.  Don’t pinch too hard, just enough to raise the skin.  You are going to inject into the pinched skin because the act of pinching it helps to numb the area.  You want the need angle to be almost parallel with the cat, but slightly raised.  Look at the needle length and then look at the amount of skin you’ve pinched – you want the need to penetrate into the middle of skin mass that you’ve pinched.

Be as quick as possible because you want to puncture through nerve-laden skin as quickly as possible – most of the nerves are at the very surface of the skin.  Once the needle is in, you can slow down a bit since the worst is over.  Slowly push the syringe plunger down until the contents are in your cat and then quickly remove the needle.

Post Injection

It is important to have some cuddling/play time with your kitty just after an injection, doling out lots of affection.  Give lots of verbal praise also.  This helps Fluffy associate positive with the experience.

Cat Injection
Cat Injection

from: happyday.dk

A truly balanced well-balanced and well-adjusted cat is one that has been properly socialized.

A fearful attitude toward people is often transmitted from Momma cat to Baby kitten.  If Momma is fearful and distrustful of people, then she passes that predisposition right on to her babies.

It is imperative, along with feeding a kitten, to bond with him/her by petting, talking, playing with your kitten.  This cannot be overstated.  You are attempting to overcome the genetically predisposed programming of fear of humans.

Although there is a great temptation to wean your kittens as quickly as possible, the natural process is typically about six to seven weeks.  Do not rush this.  In addition, kittens love to suckle with momma, even after they have been weaned – this is primarily for comfort.

It is also important for kittens to stay with their littermates, or other role-model cats for about 12 weeks.  It makes sense that your kitten needs this interaction to learn how to act like a kitten/cat.  Kitten play is important because it increases coordination and the important social skill of learning limits.

When possible, a kitten should be held between 15 and 40 minutes per day, especially during its first seven weeks.  During this first 7 week period, they are very receptive to stimulus and input so lots of positive interaction is to their (and yours) ultimate benefit.

Cat Behavior
Cat Behavior

“Say Cheese”

from: ragamews.com

Age 11 seems to be pivotal age for a cat where they move from adult to senior.  Obviously, this is not a hard, set age, but a guideline. 

Ideal Weight

One of the main challenges for a senior cat is maintaining its ideal weight.  There can be excessive weight gain from reduced activity levels, but also weight loss because of a lack of interest in eating, in general. 

A cat’s sense of taste and smell diminish over time which makes eating less desirable.  In addition, their ability to properly digest their food, absorbing key nutrients also decreases with age, making eating much less efficient.

Know Thy Cat

Cats are truly creatures of habit and a significant deviation in their behavior can be a red flag that something is not right.  Pay attention to changes in their activity levels, weight changes, grooming and elimination patterns.  If you notice something, have your vet examine your kitty.

Body Chemistry Shift

Good nutrition for an aging cat is very important.  Their body chemistries are changing as they age, so it essential that you feed them food that is formulated for their special needs.  Although there are many aging cat food formulas out their, I recommend that you have at least one consultation with your vet to put together a tailored nutritional plan for you cat’s individual needs. 

Cat Care
Cat Care

From: hagen.let.rug.nl

When owning a cat, there are few things to consider, such as: living conditions, feeding, grooming and cleanliness.

Living Conditions

Cats are very adaptable – they can live indoors or outdoors.  If you live in a city apartment, then your cat will most likely be an ‘indoor’ cat – although some apartment dwellers do like to take their favorite felines out for a walk from time to time (if this is the case, then make sure you use a good cat harness).

If you live on a farm (sort of the other extreme), then your cat may be an outdoor or barnyard cat exclusively.  And guess what, they are happy either way.  The big no-no for a cat is keeping it constantly locked up in a cage – this will drive the cat nuts for cats need freedom and mobility.

Feeding

Again, with a cat, you have great deal of flexibility here.  You can have free-choice feedings, meaning, the food is constantly out and the cat can eat whenever it wants to.  Or you can have scheduled feedings, where you set out a certain amount of food at a specified time.  Of course, the free-choice method is easiest on the owner, but if your kitty has a weight problem, you may have to set down a schedule.  Also, consider this, cats are natural hunters and by extension carnivores – they need to eat food that is high in protein.  A vegetarian diet is a dangerous thing for a feline.  Most cats will prefer canned food over dry, but dry food is better for their teeth.  Some people like to alternate back and forth between canned and dry so their cats get the best of both worlds.  In addition, try to avoid giving cows milk to ‘Fluffy’.  You see, the cow’s milk protein size is too large for cats to digest and some won’t react well to it — you cat can suffer from diarrhea or other digestion problems like vomiting.  Fresh, clean water is what cats need most.

Grooming

One of the best features about a cat is its ability to groom itself.  Cat’s instinctively want to be clean and are constantly using that rough tongue of theirs to clean themselves from head to toe.  In fact, when a cat stops cleaning itself, you might be concerned that he/she is sick or not feeling well.  The long-haired cat breed owner may also have to spend some time brushing their kitty, just to keep Fluffy’s fur from getting all tangled.  But remember, this is more of a cosmetic concern.

Cleanliness

Cats instinctively want to eliminate is relatively clean places.  They also like to bury their waste, which is why they often dig in their litter box beforehand and then cover it up afterwards.  Be good to your cat and change their litter boxes often.  Clean your cat’s litter box frequently, at least once per week.  Your cat will be happier for it and you will also enjoy a better smelling dwelling.  One symptom that you are not cleaning your cat’s litter often enough is when you cat starts to eliminate in other places.  You don’t want this because cat urine is extremely potent and will just hang around.

Cat Care
Cat Care

The act of spraying is simply a cat’s way of marking territory and letting all of ‘catdom’ know that it is his – a very natural, God-given instinct.  However, this act brings a lot of stress and sometimes expense to the owner.

Spraying or Urinating

Let’s talk about urinating verses spraying.  When cat’s urinate, it’s a means of waste elimination and it typically done vertically on a horizontal surface, like a litter box.  Spraying is just the opposite – it is done horizontally, usually on a vertical surface, such as a wall, or couch at just about cat nose level.  Although irritating,  you can’t really blame the cat for doing what is natural and hard-wired into their DNA.

How to Combat Spraying

The best way to combat spraying is to stop it before it starts. First, we must understand that most spaying happens from non-spayed/neutered cats (especially males) – it is a sign of sexual maturity.  Because it is an activity of a sexually mature cat, most veterinarians’ recommend that a cat be spayed/neutered before he/she is 6 months old – some even recommend it as early as 12 weeks.

Urinating in Strange Places

If you are find that Kitty is urinating in strange places, like the rug next to the litter box, this might be a sign of a physical problem such as a bladder infection.  Or it could be a sign that Kitty is under stress or is somehow confused about some change in the household.  Also, the smell of the litter box can be an offense to your cat – you may want to change the litter more often.

Cat Health
Cat Health

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